December 2023-January 2024 I need to return to complete this narrative - Left it too long and it gets less easy with time
Photo Albums by country below including an album of my favourites
My favourites from across all countries
Pre Tour
Tour Part 1 to Antigua, Guatemala from Playa de Carmen
Day 1: Tour started officially, evening of Tuesday 12th, Playa de Carmen, Yucatan, Mexico.
There were 16 of us from 5 different countries including a family of 5 from New Zealand. The family and one other left at the halfway in Antigua and 5 others joined to replace them. It was a wonderfully well travelled group. Not all groups “gel”. This / these 2, did and well.
Day 2: Wednesday: A free day at play de Carmen. Rather wasted by me and with some hindsight, I used it to get used to the heat change from wintry UK. Considered tour to Mayan ruins but we had 3 Mayan sites lined up for later in 3 countries. Id like to return to Mexico for Aztecs and Mayans. A circular rail route under construction in this south eastern part of Mexico which will make travel around simpler, perhaps too easy.
Day 3: Thursday: South by private bus to Chetumal close to the border with Belize. On the way we stopped for lunch at a small town called Bacalar with a fort linked to the world and times of piracy. (Museum of Piracy inside) A couple female pirates used the area as a hideout. Richest plundering’s were in hardwoods rather than gold etc. Chetumal concealed in a rather dower Museum exterior some fabulous displays including the Mayan tree (the Ceiba aka the Yaxche to the Mayans) spanning 3 floors of the museum reflecting the importance of underworld, afterlife, as well as everyday life, The Gods could span all 3 levels representing the 3 realms
Day 4: Friday 15th: Crossing to Belize, and out to Caye Caulker.
A short private bus trip to a local Chetumal tour company where we were guided on the completion of the border documentation and then combined with other border crossers both local and backpackers and holiday makers aboard a c50 seat bus. Efficient and we were soon through and on our way to Belize city. A strange no explanation stop en route adding to the mystique. Mechanical or otherwise. Housing decidedly poorer than Mexico. Kiosks which we passed seemed more informal with limited range of merchandise. Skin tones much darker than a few miles to the north in Mexico. Agriculture poor in layout and activity and also and a lot of water in streams pools. Perhaps from the rains that had affected the tour to date.
Belize city, sometime wonderfully colourful, mostly drab with an abundance of security bars and razor wire and high walls. Our bus height allowed some glimpses over the high walls. Later chatter was that the city a mixed city with some okay / safe areas and some with security risks. Our only stop besides the 1001 traffic bedlam induced ones was the bus depot. Lower deck high speed passenger boat packed tighter than an economy airline would dare and a sun exposed upper deck. I squeezed in below to avoid the sun. The journey was c 3 hours to Caye Caulker, once a single island, now split in two due to a storm with the tourist part on one only.
Much rain had transpired as the clouds had sweated their burden and the dirt roads were pool ladened. The rains had passed.
Day 5: Saturday; Caye Caulker a snorkelly misadventure for me. The boat was impressive and we were the largest tour group upon it. Went into waters and I did not like the roughness of the waves. Nearly all the others were fine and perhaps I was spoilt by the calmness of the Red Sea in Hurghada, Egypt a year earlier. Onto the deck and my Factor 50 suncream as bought that morning which turned out to be useless and my evening time I was lobster like (Hint to self- buy a quality product at home if seas and suns beckon).
Day 6 Caye caulker at leisure or literally one lobster (me) looking for fresh lobster to graze on. I enjoyed a lazy day, lobster was delicious from boat to barrell to grill to plastic tray.
Day 7: Monday 18th to San Ignacio, Belize
Ferry to Belize city seemed faster than our outward journey.
A genuinely local bus from Belize city with lots of local people for the journey to the highlands. The bus depot a mecca of snacks and a 2 squash court size caged shed where we awaited our bus. Our tour leader said he would look after the bags as we placed them near the bus and then squeezed on in a surge of humanity to seize our seats which were first come first sat. Our tour leader was unable to board himself as the bus was soon overfull. Then the standers were evicted as we left the bus station. Immediately outside the “standers” and our tour leader were able to board the bus again. Performance art meets a charade. We had reserved a seat for our tour leader but the movements of passenger numbers was a spectacle. Later en route we were stopped by police and the driver “fined” as we still had standers. By the time of our final destination we had one person per seat and no standers. Sitting near the front I was fortunate to hear the rhyming musical vocal banter between driver and passenger and they cajoled a stop more convenient to them than any official stop.
San Ignacio was a pleasant contrast to the poorer Santa Elena on the other side of the river. Tourism had benefited San I but not San E.
Restaurant eating was totally chaotic and more so was the confusion over cocktails. Yes they were on the menu but the restaurant was totally disorganised rather than understaffed. There were a few other tables of 4 or so before and after us. Even those who had ordered before we arrived struggled. This was to be a frequent feature of the tour, Big long complex menus, tourists with quirks as to dietary / ingredients and good natured people disorganised or not fully trained for our numbers. I resolved the problem for me at least by ordering 2 beers at a time. I was never hungry during the weeks that followed as there was always plenty of food everywhere supplemented by endless snacks at stops. Patience required when eating and a smile and a joke essential.
Day 8: Tuesday : Mayan ruins at Caracol
The tours from San Ignacio were well organised and varied. Caves were limited numbers due to impact of prior rains which although ended, were now working their way through nature. I selected the Mayan tour option and was thrilled. My first encounter with any ancient Mayan ruins and wow- so impressive in what has survived.
Caracol once covered about 200 square kilometres and had an estimated population at peak of 100,000. First settlements were from 1200 BCE but the main activities were between 650BCE and 950CE. In total there are some 53 carved stone monuments (stelae and altars). We climbed quite a few and learned about their ball games which are still mysterious.
A building boom started around 636CE following the end of a bout of wars with neighbouring Tikal (76km away in Guatemala and for later in tour).
Day 9: Wednesday 20th, Border crossing to Tikal National park in North Eastern Guatemala.
Dating from 4th c BCE, it peaked between 200 and 900 CE. The name Tikal is said to mean “at the waterhole” and is relatively modern in source. The collapse is said to be over population and agriculture failure. Personally I speculate that with success came size and increasing pressure to feed and support population, with closer proximity to animals and then possibly climate change.
The following morning at dawn we returned to sit atop one of the stelae and listen and see the sunrise as the forest awakes and howler monkeys go through their Vocal ranges.
Day 10: After sunrise at Tikal we headed south via Flores island to Rio Dulce
Pretty island, colourful with tuc tucs galore for locals through their narrow cobbled streets. Buildings a riot of vibrant colour
Rains hit again as their sorrows not exhausted
Motorbike crash along the road causing a jam – lack of headgear the norm on bikes and unsure if part of this blockage. One dead at least.
Late arrival in Rio Dulce about 8pm and 15 minute motorboat to accommodation
Day 11: Out to Livingston (south east coast of Guatemala) by showery rain soaked boat
Stop en route for an intro to Hindu contribution to this zone of mixed culture. Me thinking this is what the British did in Natal.
Our local tour guide was positive and optimistic about the area, but the town was largely unresponsive.
Community centre unused potential where money had been spent to uplift but largely unused.
Abundance of evidence of home and business security says big gap between haves and have nots
Tuc tuc out to beach—not much happening price dispute between a few of our group and a seller suggesting a hint of underlying problem- perhaps frustration that tourism is not bringing riches as may have been promised.
Wonderful lunch fish soup at a new female led restaurant a hint of potential.
I like to be optimistic of these places, but lacking tourist numbers and what to do and see,
At least the rains stopped whilst we were there
Back on boat for wet journey back to Rio Dulce.
Day 12: Long day bus journey to Antigua.
Bypassing the massive capital
Surrounded by volcanoes with one hic-cupping its black smoke approx. 3 times an hour. I remain intrigued by the proximity of towns to volcanoes. Yes the soils are more fertile and yes they do not explode annually or even once per decade. Rather they loiter sultry on near horizon with awful potential. As a tourist from a volcano free land, they are initially fascinating.
I liked Antigua and we returned later. The low rise buildings, narrow(ish) colourful frontages but running away from street in deep cool shade sometimes with open air atrium like space and others, just cool. Roof potential sometimes seized. Busy with tourists but not over run.
Day 13: Christmas Eve: A bus drive to Chichicastenango, stopover with a local Shaman for blessing, busy market town. Christmas present buying as we split up in pairs to stay with a Mayan family at San Jorge La Laguna. A very unusual and pleasant Christmas eve.
Presents for 2 boys and a daughter
Dancing and music and fireworks for Christmas eve
Lack of so much in their home, but friendly.
The eldest son played keyboards and in traditional costume I danced with homeowner and fellow traveller Alan. We adjourned to oyr beds by 10pm as the entertainment ended. Alan woke me close to midnight as the town firworks got going and we shared a beer on the vernadah. Google helped translate conversations but so different an experience,
Day 14; Christmas day, we moved on a short distance to the town of Panajachel on Lake attilan
Early morning transfer
A kaleidoscope of colourful costumes and outfits, sometraditional, some modern as 3 generation families paraded along the lake front
Volcanoes abound around this lake.
Dined at a posh hotel in a pretty garden setting, good service
Day 15: Return to Antigua
Scenic journey back to Antigua along a twisty turny road with some good views back to Lake attialn.
Day 16: Antigua and volcanoes
Day 17: Antigua at leisure as one tour ends and another starts. Tour 2 to Costa Rica.
Lazy day in Antigua, new folk and a continuation of camaraderie rather than a break.
Tour Part 2
Day 18: South East to Copan in Honduras
Early start for our journey. Disorganised borders
Hotel on steep hill, walk around
Off to tot springs volcano heated and alate meal
Day 19: Copan tour and then off to Suchitoto in El Salvador
Early start for the 3rd of our Mayan ruins, this being the oldest site of the 3. Colourfal Macaws
Back though Guatamela and then onto El Salvador
Evening cooking lesson
Day 20: New Years Eve Suchitoto
I wandered around in morning- some nice photos in a sleepy
Lunchtime in market-
A long slow dinner before fireworks (normal and literal) in the town square. All feeling safe.
Day21: New Years Day: El Cuco on the Pacific Coast
Owned by an American our resort was busy
Open sided thatched shelters, hammock adorned and filled with music and families
Turtle release chaos
Lobster delights- culinary
Day 22: El Cuco free day
Beach walks
Day 23: Wednesday 3rd: Long day bus journey to Leon in Nicaragua
4.30 departure for 3.30pm arrival, via Honduras for lunch
Character and not very touristy, it is still the 2nd biggest city in the country. Many of the streets are mural lined
Day 24: Bus to Granada
Morning tour Leon- passionate tour guide- ravages of civil war commemorated in murals
Granada is the oldest city in the new world
Day 25: Busy day in Granada
Monkey island tour by boat
Volcano lunchtime swim
Nighttime Masaya volcano-- lively powerful and a fierce reminder of power of nature.
Day 26: Bus and Boat to Omotepe island.
Café de son risas – deaf school established by a European settled here. Good to see care for those left behind as society progresses economically
The island derives from the 2 volcanoes in a lake
Day 27: Tour of Omotepe.
Hieroglyphs from times passed scattered to gentle hillside through which our road weaved. An entrance to a former village unknown. Wildlife in lizards and monkeys abound relaxed in the heat of the day. A [leasnat lunch overlooking the lake. Back to our hotel to oversee a continuation of the raiding parties on the plantations. And clouds still hid the volcano peaks.
Day 28: Monday 8th Boat and Bus to Monteverde in Costa Rica
Early start to catch our ferry back to the mainland and a long journey to a busy border
Day29: Monteverde
Very touristy hill-town stretched out along above and below the hills or small mountains. Pretty but lacking evidence of a being a real town with any life outside the tourist trade. An absence of funeral parlours my new benchmark that the sole reason to be was that of tourism.
And sure enough, this was the gateway to the most professionally organised tourist focused country of our tour. Here at M and elsewhere were a range of options from night walks, plantations (sugar coffee) zip wire and many more.
Day 30: Wednesday 10th: Bus, boat and bus to La Fortuna.
A long and twisty windy bendy curvy road to a lake, where along with many other similar shaped buses and vehicles, we were marshalled to await the arrival of a dedicated to us boat to cross the lake and onwards to our next stop.
Day 31: La Fortuna
Where M had hills, La F was flat as pancake and ponted to a neighbouring off limits volcano. Spaced out around an “old” small town, it was like M dedicated to us the tourists with its hotels, restaurants shops and travel agencies. Much bigger than M, it was still in contrast with eperiences in the previous countries on our journey.
Day 32: Friday 12th: Bus to San Jose.
An “upgrade” from our official tour bus to one without AC to convey us to the capital. It was there on a familiarisation walkabout that we agreed this was a different experience being the first “City” of size. Bustly busy history and not wealthy in modern terms
Day 33. Saturday 13th and last official “day” of tour with flight home Copa airlines of Panama to Panama and KLM to Amsterdam and Newcastle.
A dollop of chaos as my brain identified a risk due to the recent Boeing problem with one of their models upon which Cop was dependent. I was not scheduled to use one of those models to get to Panama but Copa Panama head office was not communicating with San Jose check in and nor were they answering phones from my UK agent.
At last all was resolved, and I was rushed through the airport to board a flight at the last minute, all earlier than my ticketed flight but at least I was moving and on my way to Panama to meet KLM
Day 34 Sunday 14th: Home to snowflakes. To which can be added the 2 days “pre tour” making 36 days in all allowing for the Official Tour